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Author Topic: Mongolia
skdadl
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posted 27 July 2005 03:47 PM      Profile for skdadl     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Most of the very few things I've ever known about Mongolia are positive associations for me -- very long and often glorious history; apparently very positive emergence from Soviet domination to good relations with just about every other country, in spite of Mongolia's sensitive position; great physical beauty; and so on. Apparently it is a very open, safe, and friendly place for visitors from anywhere to take desert and mountain tours.

Some people will know why I started googling about for a little background information about Mongolia today. There are many, many sites, although I haven't found many newsy ones. Perhaps someone else can do better. This Library of Congress guide looks like a good place for anyone who wants to to begin some research.

Even just looking at the chronology of important events in Mongolian history is fascinating. I have already learned, eg, to write "Chinggis Khan" and "Khubilai Khan."

I also know that the story of the "Golden Horde" has been of major importance in the history of Russia, Ukraine, and Poland, notably.

Over the last year, I have read in both the NY Times and the G&M travel sections, I believe, fascinating travellers' accounts of good times in present-day Mongolia, although, as usual, details are escaping me now. Maybe someone here has visited?

And maybe my vague impressions are too sunny altogether and someone will come along to correct me. That would be useful too.


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v michel
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posted 27 July 2005 04:49 PM      Profile for v michel     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I've always been a sucker for travel books, especially travel books by overbearing imperialist British men (I am completely serious, I am not being snide). I don't know why. So my impressions of Mongolia have been colored by that, and are probably totally fictional.

I just finished this: link to book

The parts that were most interesting where where he talked about the decaying cities and vacuum left by the failing communist infrastructure, and travel to Russia/other ex-Republics to sell black market goods. It was interesting because it was unexpected. When I thought of Mongolia I thought of horses and nomads, not drunk teenagers on trains with bundles of stereo equipment and guns.

Otherwise, the author is a big jerk who thinks he can prove his manhood if he rides across Mongolia like the noble Mongolians do. Yet bizarrely I found it impossible to put down.


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skdadl
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posted 27 July 2005 04:49 PM      Profile for skdadl     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Couldn't find either of the newspaper reports I remembered, but this site gives a very good impression of the treks I've heard about.

Have your speakers on. The music is quite lovely.


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skdadl
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posted 27 July 2005 04:52 PM      Profile for skdadl     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Oh, hi, vmichel. I thought I was alone here.

I've read a couple of reviews of that book that said more or less what you just have. I understand the attraction, though. How did you first come across the book?


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v michel
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posted 27 July 2005 04:59 PM      Profile for v michel     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
The book was a gift. I am a compulsive reader of travel narratives, so that was an excellent gift for me At the same time I was readingthis book by Tiziano Terzani about travelling in Asia w/o using airplanes, which also touches on Mongolia. So it was interesting seeing Mongolia through both author's eyes at the same time. Terzani was a happier guy, but Stewart did a better job of digging in.

Both books did make me want to learn more about the place, preferably from a different perspective. So cool topic for me!


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skdadl
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posted 27 July 2005 05:12 PM      Profile for skdadl     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
If I were free and rich, I would be talking myself into something here.

I've been looking at the photos on that tour site -- what they call the cultural photos. I know that I'm performing exoticism here, but those are so evocative to me, and what they are evoking is freedom.

Maybe I need to read Stewart as an antidote.


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v michel
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posted 27 July 2005 05:43 PM      Profile for v michel     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Yes, the Stewart will cure you of that. He definitely doesn't glamorize Mongolia, I have to say. He will make you consider packing up the contents of your closet and heading that direction for a little semi-legal entrepreneurship, however...

Actually come to think of it I think that's why I like the books by cranky imperialists. Because in their snobbish hatred of their subject, they reveal it warts and all, and you get a much more interesting picture than you get from the typical traveller who loves the place.


From: a protected valley in the middle of nothing | Registered: Jan 2005  |  IP: Logged
Yukoner
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posted 27 July 2005 06:22 PM      Profile for Yukoner   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Anyone rememmber that Devo song; Mongoloid?

quote:
Mongoloid he was a mongoloid
Happier than you and me
Mongoloid he was a mongoloid
And it determined what he could see
Mongoloid he was a mongoloid
One chromosome too many
Mongoloid he was a mongoloid
And it determined what he could see
And he wore a hat
And he had a job
And he brought home the bacon
So that no one knew
Mongoloid he was a mongoloid
His friends were unaware
Mongoloid he was a mongoloid
Nobody even cared

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'lance
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posted 27 July 2005 09:15 PM      Profile for 'lance     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
A friend of mine from student-press days (who I haven't seen since I can't remember when) spent a couple of years in Mongolia, eventually publishing a book about it.

Edit:

I just read the quoted sentence. "Like aspirin scattered over a green bedspread"? Oh dear.

[ 27 July 2005: Message edited by: 'lance ]


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Cueball
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posted 27 July 2005 09:21 PM      Profile for Cueball   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by Yukoner:
Anyone rememmber that Devo song; Mongoloid?


Yes, racist negative associations with the Mongols began with the European enlightenment. This found its way into the thinking of the early eugenisists whom asserted that mongoloid genetic types originated with the Mongol "barbarians" and was transimitted through ressesive Mongol genes, imported to Euorope during the Mongol invasion of Europe.


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Cueball
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posted 27 July 2005 09:29 PM      Profile for Cueball   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Ghengis Khan's spirit banner, a talisman made from horses hair and set upon a pole, disappeared during the period of Stalanist repression of Mongol Nationalism. The body of the pesron was of relatively little importance, and partly because of this the Great Khan's body was burried without being marked. It location remains a mystery today. The Mongols believed that the spirit of a person was transmitted to banner when they died. It had been protected by Budhist monks for centuries and was a sacred symbol of the Mongol nation, rather like the Scottish Stone of Scone.

[ 27 July 2005: Message edited by: Cueball ]


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'lance
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posted 27 July 2005 09:30 PM      Profile for 'lance     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
This found its way into the thinking of the early eugenisists whom asserted that mongoloid genetic types originated with the Mongol "barbarians" and was transimitted through ressesive Mongol genes, imported to Euorope during the Mongol invasion of Europe.

Yes, if I remember right old Dr. Down (of Syndrome fame) thought that "mongolism" was a reversion to an earlier, lower state of humanity.


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Cueball
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posted 27 July 2005 09:34 PM      Profile for Cueball   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
However, it seems these lower types were capable of kicking everyones ass, and building the largest empire the world has ever known. The last Khan to claim lineage to Ghengis Khan was removed from power in Bhukara sometime in the 1920's.
From: Out from under the bridge and out for a stroll | Registered: Dec 2003  |  IP: Logged
skdadl
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posted 28 July 2005 10:36 AM      Profile for skdadl     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Their empire was immense, wasn't it.

And the designs are so seductive. I couldn't help noticing, in the photos on that travel site, how very pale and bland Western tourists look, set in the midst of all that colour.

See the colourful shutters 'lance's Lawless girlfriend has on the cover of her book? I'm going to paint some cupboard doors that way.


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brebis noire
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posted 28 July 2005 10:40 AM      Profile for brebis noire     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I saw two movies about Mongolia that completely enchanted me: one was at the Montreal film festival a few years ago, it was called Celestial Grasslands. Excellent, lovely cinematography and a good story too.
The other I saw this year, the title and the story was something about a camel. Very good as well. I'll try to find the title.
Some scenes of Mongolia remind me strongly of parts of southern Saskatchewan.

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skdadl
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posted 28 July 2005 10:43 AM      Profile for skdadl     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Heh. They remind me of Alberta, of course ...

Y'know, I think there is something about prairie people that sets them off wandering, looking for other prairies. I'm serious. One of my brothers just went all gooey for the South African veldt, and as soon as I saw pictures, I knew why.

We're a weird subset.


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brebis noire
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posted 28 July 2005 10:47 AM      Profile for brebis noire     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Yup, I could've said southern Alberta, too.

The movie was The Story of the Weeping Camel

Sorry, can't get the link to work.

[ 28 July 2005: Message edited by: brebis noire ]


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Suzette
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posted 28 July 2005 10:50 AM      Profile for Suzette     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I'm sure many other babblers have seen Genghis Blues. It's a great film about blind blues singer, Paul Pena, who goes to Tuva (between Siberia and Mongolia, apparently) to learn their unusual musical style, throat singing. It's really an amazing journey Paul makes, and I'd recommend the film for a dozen different reasons. On this occaision, however, because it's shot near Mongolia.
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Willowdale Wizard
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posted 28 July 2005 11:07 AM      Profile for Willowdale Wizard   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
i took the trans-siberian through mongolia in the winter of 1998. these aren't my photos, but some representative ones i found on the 'net:


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skdadl
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posted 28 July 2005 11:12 AM      Profile for skdadl     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Ok, WW: How cold was it?
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Willowdale Wizard
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posted 01 August 2005 10:13 AM      Profile for Willowdale Wizard   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
it was so cold that:

mongolian hitchhikers were holding up pictures of thumbs!

the train's optician was giving away free ice scrapers with every new pair of eyeglasses!

train pickpockets were sticking their hands in strangers' pockets just to keep them warm!

thank you very much. i'll be appearing at yuk yuk's in brampton next thursday.


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skdadl
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posted 01 August 2005 10:52 AM      Profile for skdadl     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 

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Rufus Polson
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posted 01 August 2005 02:22 PM      Profile for Rufus Polson     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by Cueball:
However, it seems these lower types were capable of kicking everyones ass, and building the largest empire the world has ever known. The last Khan to claim lineage to Ghengis Khan was removed from power in Bhukara sometime in the 1920's.

Not that that's an especially wonderful thing. I always wonder why it is that *other* people's empires are romantic and full of pageantry, whereas only the current Western ones involve brutality and power-and-wealth-hungry jackals at the top. I mean, sorry, but Ghengis Khan was a much bigger mass murderer than George W. Bush (although admittedly far smarter). So was Alexander. The Mongols depopulated huge areas by the simple expedient of killing everyone and burning everything; this literal scorched earth policy produced territory where Mongol nomads could live but farmers and city folk could not. Eventually, as they got corrupted by their conquests and became what they would have thought of as decadent, they ended up no more objectionable than any other really big boss (that is, still quite objectionable).


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Rich L
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posted 05 August 2005 01:11 AM      Profile for Rich L     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
The political history of Mongolia in the 1990s is quite bizarre. American Republicans, fresh from their success in selling their right wing and flat tax agenda under the guise of a "Contract with America," flew to Mongolia to sell their platform as the answer for all of the post-Stalinist country's problems. Mongolian voters bought into it and the result was mass privatization and a flat tax system. Not surprisingly, the experiment was an absolute disaster that has served to enrich a small number of folks. Here are a couple of links:

Mongolia Today: Dark Side of Mongolia

Workers World: Mongolia and Yugoslavia


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beibhnn
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posted 05 August 2005 11:04 AM      Profile for beibhnn     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
On my last day of travel in Austria several years ago, I had just had an unfortunate run in with an aggressive suitor in the park (The Sound of Music Park at that!) so I moved to the train station to wait for my midnight train to Germany. Clearly fate meant for me to go there because I ran into the most lovely woman from Mongolia who had been separated from her party and had no money or method to return to Vienna.

It turned out that she was one of the VIPs from the Finance Department in the Mongolian government and was attending IMF meetings in Vienna. All the IMF delegates had gone off for a day of sightseeing in Salzburg, but somehow had left poor Ms. Mongolia behind and they had her ticket. Her plan was to give her camera to the conductor in the hopes that he would accept that as a fare. And I discovered there are no credit cards in Mongolia - they are a cash and barter society.

I am forever grateful that my last memory of Salzburg was tea and cake with this woman while we both tried valiantly to understand each other and showed each other pictures of our families. Eventually, I used my modicum of German to explain her problem to the police and managed to ensure that she got onto the next train to Vienna. I also helped her get in contact with her organization in Vienna to explain her situation. I became her first "English" friend she said and I still occassionally receive lovely cards from her and her family in Ulan Bator. For what it is worth, it's nice to know that I have a connection with one of the important officials in Mongolia. It's enough to make me look twice at the pictures she sends me and rethink my vacation plans for the year.


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Willowdale Wizard
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posted 05 August 2005 11:50 AM      Profile for Willowdale Wizard   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
not as good an anecdote, but when i was getting my mongolian transit visa for my train journey (beijing-russia), "fashion television" from CITY-TV was on the television at the mongolian embassy in beijing. still more evidence of the power of znaimer.
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Cueball
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posted 05 August 2005 01:33 PM      Profile for Cueball   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by Rufus Polson:

Not that that's an especially wonderful thing. I always wonder why it is that *other* people's empires are romantic and full of pageantry, whereas only the current Western ones involve brutality and power-and-wealth-hungry jackals at the top. I mean, sorry, but Ghengis Khan was a much bigger mass murderer than George W. Bush (although admittedly far smarter). So was Alexander. The Mongols depopulated huge areas by the simple expedient of killing everyone and burning everything; this literal scorched earth policy produced territory where Mongol nomads could live but farmers and city folk could not. Eventually, as they got corrupted by their conquests and became what they would have thought of as decadent, they ended up no more objectionable than any other really big boss (that is, still quite objectionable).


I see your point but mine was a rhetorical illustration, not am statement of advocacy.

While it is the case that Ghenghis Khan was ruthless, and certainly had a huge amount of blood on his hands, his later bigographer, Jack Wethford asserts that many of the tales of gratuitous Mongol slaughter actually shold be traced to Tarmalane not Ghenghis Khan. He credits Ghengis Khan with the ides of diplomatic immunity, among other things.

And interestingly, the scroched earth policy was not simply a gratuitous punishment. It had a direct military purpose, in that by turning large swathes of farm land into grassland steppe, the Mongols created forward base areas for supplying their horses.

They didn't do this everywhere and to everyone, but select areas to support future military operations, according to Wetheford.

[ 05 August 2005: Message edited by: Cueball ]


From: Out from under the bridge and out for a stroll | Registered: Dec 2003  |  IP: Logged
CMOT Dibbler
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posted 05 August 2005 02:19 PM      Profile for CMOT Dibbler     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
Jack Wethford asserts that many of the tales of gratuitous Mongol slaughter actually shold be traced to Tarmalane not Ghenghis Khan. He credits Ghengis Khan with the ides of diplomatic immunity, among other things.


Who came first, Ghengis or Tarmalane

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CMOT Dibbler
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posted 05 August 2005 02:33 PM      Profile for CMOT Dibbler     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
"mongolism"

What exactly is it?

I could be wrong, but it seems to me that for the longest time, Downs Syndrome was infact called mongoloid syndrome? Am I correct?


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Mr. Magoo
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posted 05 August 2005 02:43 PM      Profile for Mr. Magoo   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Yup. And now Down syndrome tends to be called "Down's".

(In case anyone didn't get it: no "'s")


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Cueball
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posted 05 August 2005 05:12 PM      Profile for Cueball   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by CMOT Dibbler:

Who came first, Ghengis or Tarmalane

Ghengis Khan. Tarmalane asserted that he was decended from Ghengis Khan's blood line, but that may just have been propoganda.


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Contrarian
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posted 05 August 2005 05:20 PM      Profile for Contrarian     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Tamerlane was not descended from Genghis but married two of his descendants [it doesn't say if this was consecutively or concurrently]. He played chess. The link looks like a pretty good summary, even though it doesn't mention pyramids of skulls.
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arborman
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posted 05 August 2005 07:46 PM      Profile for arborman     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
No doubt Ghenghis Khan did some nasty stuff - you need to be nasty if you try to conquer the world.

Ditto Attilla the Hun.

All that being said, as a descendent of Atilla's army (like most Hungarians), I find it interesting the effect of the western viewpoint. While most of us are raised to think of Attilla as a big nasty raider (which he certainly was), in Hungarian the closest meaning is 'a Good Father'.

Genghis kicked Euro arse, and as such we have a culturally negative view of his activities. It's my opinion that his conquering pales in comparison to the European 'discovery' of North America.


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