The question that I'm throwing out here, though, is specifically related to the epic east-west journey of the "Canadian". It takes up the first week of my trip - leaving from Toronto, arriving in Vancouver, and spending two days in Winnipeg, two days in Jasper, AB. (The train only goes three times a week so once you're off, you're not getting back on for 2 or 3 days!). Now I've read backwards, forwards, upside down and every possible way the VIA Rail website, the tourist guides, etc. And I have to say, I'm really excited by it. So this is directed in particular towards those who either know one or more of the regions it passes through, or have taken this trip in the past. Help me read between the lines and get the true story

The last time I took the Canadian I went by the old southern route: after Winnipeg, my train headed for Regina, Medicine Hat, Calgary, Banff; where you will be heading for Saskatoon and Edmonton, yes? (The southern route was closed by the Mulroney Tories. I am still bitter.)

I don't know Winnipeg at all, so I'll let someone else do that. Two days in Jasper sounds wonderful, though -- it is gorgeous, and still not as commercially overwhelmed as Banff, very woodsy, wonderfully set. Try to see Jasper Park Lodge, even if you can't stay there (in season, who could?) -- I don't have the history to hand, but it is a historic old hotel, now splendidly renovated. The town history is fascinating: splurge on a good guidebook at the hotel or in town.

What time of day does your train leave Jasper for the coast? Everything from Jasper west is sublime scenery, mountains, wide valleys, the Fraser Canyon. I suspect, though, that that will be an overnight trip, so you'll be missing something in there. The Fraser Canyon is breathtaking, but the last time I took the train from Vancouver to Banff, it was the canyon that we headed into as it grew dark. I was so disappointed. Still, we woke up halfway up the grandest Rockies -- there is so much to see; I guess we can't have it all.

In my memory, you can see well from everywhere. It is great fun, though, especially winding through the mountains, to be able to see the other end of the train curling ahead of or behind you (and often above or below). There should be a couple of observation cars (double-decker, glass roofs) -- go early to get a seat, although I recall people being pretty civilized about taking turns.

I wonder if they still have a bar car, right at the end. That's always fun -- people mingle there. And wear soft clothes would be my advice if you're sleeping sitting up; plus the nights could well be chilly.

Tell you what, I'll go and peer up at the Jasper Park Lodge and maybe even take a photo My accommodation is in the main youth hostel, which will be fun in its own special way, of course. After I'm done there, the train pulls out about 5pm I believe - so still some good daylight - arrive at Vancouver before 8am the following morning (if on time, of course, though I'm being led to believe that Amtrak, responsible for 20 days of my trip, make VIA look like the Swiss).'

Real food
Packaged
Bar

[ 18 June 2003: Message edited by: 4t2 ]

It was awesome, even in economy (damn those back-twisting seats).
We left Edmonton in the morning, and arrived in Jasper at around 2 in the afternoon (or 13:00. For some reason, Americans on board thought Canadians used military time all the time, as in: "say b'y, you gots the time, wha?". "Sure, it's aboot 14:30, buddy"). Plenty of daylight to see the Rockies. It didn't get dark until halfway through the Thompson River and Kamloops. We hit Vancouver early the next morning.
The return trip departed 5 hours late, but we were still treated to the Fraser canyon in the day (at 4 in the morning, but who can sleep in those chairs anyway. Good ol' 18 hours of daylight.)

One problem with economy is that you cannot go to the observation/bar car at the rear of the train. That is reserved for the rich, and therefore better, people on the train. You aren't even welcome past the Skyline car. You do get a dome, though. Funny thing is you can consume alcohol at your coach seat, and in the dining area, but not in the lounge part of the Skyline. I guess it upsets the smokers?

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One problem with economy is that you cannot go to the observation/bar car at the rear of the train. That is reserved for the rich, and therefore better, people on the train.

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This trip is no longer available from Thunder Bay or I'd do it again this year as I'm going out there in August. I feel that you miss so much by flying.

I recommend you make a trip to the dome section as soon as you can, even though there is nothing much to see at first, but people are naturally chatty in the dome because it's smaller. Etiquette: when someone arrives in the dome looking for a seat, let them have a turn, and go for a leisurely walk down the train. When you get back to the dome 20 or 30 minutes later, the favour will be returned.

With only two days, and the Winnipeg Transit system being what it is (maybe I'm just spoiled by the subway system, now), you will likely want to spend time on things around the Train Station. Luckily, it backs right onto the Forks, which has a market (which is ok) and, if the winter/spring flood residue has been cleared, great walking paths along the Red and Assiboine Rivers. The Station (why can't I remember the name?) is also walking distance from both Osbourne Village (think Queen West, only in Manitoba -- cross Main Street and take River Ave. (to your left) or Broadway Ave. (to you right) down to Osbourne) and St. Boniface (across the Red). It is also just steps away from Portage and Main, Portage Place, and the Parliament buildings.

Jasper - the hostel is a few KM away from the village/town itself, so my intention is to just walk as much as possible during the days and then collapse in the evenings.

I'm trying to regain fitness at present for that purpose, through finding hills in Toronto to cycle up and down - or just biking it instead of taking the bus, but this has its own dangers. If you have ever driven anywhere in North York you'll know what I mean...there are three categories of drivers:

• 1. Drivers who have just come off the 401 and think they are still on it
• 2. Oil lorries who are trying to get to the 401 as quick as possible
• 3. Drivers (usually about my age) with fast cars and porridge for brains